Ford 4610 Won't Go Into Gear When It Is Cold UPDATED

Ford 4610 Won't Go Into Gear When It Is Cold

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Ford 4610 lift arms wont drib downwards

Registered Users Posts: 441 ✭✭

Bring together Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

Hi all,

I have a Ford 4610 (Force Ii) and take had a problem with the lifts for the final few months and its gradually getting worse. the lift arms wont become down when the lever is pushed down in the cab. they come up fine and hold there (dropping slightly when the tractor is turned off)
just unless in that location is an implement on the back I have to dance on them to get them downward. (at to the lowest degree 16 st comes in handy for something!!) they are slow when an empty send box is fastened. I have opened all pins/bolts at the rear, checked them all, greased them all and information technology has washed nothing for it. Its really getting on my nerves now. I'm not certain is this an internal oil pump seal problem or what causing this issue. any advice would be profoundly appreciated.

John.

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Comments

Join Date: July 2009

Posts: 11404

Practise you know the pocket-sized blackness knob for tipping a trailer on right hand side down most the floor? Bank check is that fully in.

If the seat's wet, sit on yer lid, a cool head is ameliorate than a wet ar5e.

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Bring together Engagement: July 2010

Posts: 2443

Your 16 stone will drop from all that dancing, how will you become them downwardly then?

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Join Engagement: July 2014

Posts: 3228

Are you sure it'south not the rods for the pick upwardly hitch sticking in themselves?

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Join Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

Your 16 stone volition drop from all that dancing, how will y'all get them downward then?

Haw haw, might be no harm to loose a few pounds after the xmas...

I have 2 levers betwixt my legs for the spool valves and a ane/iv twist lever to slow or increase the period rate of the oil from the pump to the valves. this is fully open and always has been.
I accept checked the pins for the option up hitch and the loop they are joined too, all are free and greased at this phase, but all the same no joy.

whatever other ideas??

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Join Date: July 2010

Posts: 2443

Did you change the hydraulic oil filter recently?

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Join Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

Did you change the hydraulic oil filter recently?

I haven't changed the filter in vii yrs since i got the tractor. That's the filter under the cab on a 90' elbow, right??. There is prob a lot of oil to exist drained out of the back terminate, I oasis't looked yet as every evening I go home its nighttime. I presume there is some kind of sump nut to be undone. If is equally simple equally that it should be alright to change.

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Join Date: January 2015

Posts: 37

Do you know the small blackness knob for tipping a trailer on right paw side downward near the flooring? Cheque is that fully in.

Did you check this?

Had the same problem and it sorted it.

In the cab, on the floor where your right foot rests, shut to the center.
Its is a blackness knob (coming out of the center housing).
Had to pull up the floor covering a piddling to see it.

Make sure it is pushed in fully.
Pulling information technology out shuts off all hydraulics to the back finish.
With muck on boots, this knob tin get wedged/moved out as you lot postage stamp and move your right foot.

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Bring together Appointment: March 2010

Posts: 1088

Did you check this?

Had the same problem and it sorted it.

In the cab, on the floor where your right human foot rests, close to the middle.
Its is a blackness knob (coming out of the middle housing).
Had to pull upwards the floor covering a fiddling to run into it.

Make sure information technology is pushed in fully.
Pulling it out shuts off all hydraulics to the dorsum end.
With muck on boots, this knob can get wedged/moved out as you stamp and move your right foot.

Possible footling dirt in valve with handle in lower position hit arms down with a sledge impact might dislodge dirt

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Bring together Date: July 2012

Posts: 3401

Odd question.... Have y'all greased information technology lately?

Took dads tractor a few months dorsum and couldnt get pick up hitch down every bit he usually does transport box piece of work and didnt grease her properly

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Join Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

Did y'all check this?

Had the same problem and it sorted it.

In the cab, on the floor where your correct pes rests, close to the center.
Its is a blackness knob (coming out of the center housing).
Had to pull upwards the flooring covering a little to see information technology.

Make sure it is pushed in fully.
Pulling it out shuts off all hydraulics to the back cease.
With muck on boots, this knob can get wedged/moved out as you postage and move your right foot.

Thanks for all the responses. the only knob i see without lifting up the floor roofing is the i/iv plough knob to increment or wearisome the flow of oil to the spool valves. (i cant post a motion-picture show here for some reason) this moves a bar/rod down under the cab where there is a valve on the side of the torso

I run across the black knob on some other pics on the web they are not present on mine.

the lifts elevator a silage bale and hold information technology there, no jumping of the lifts then its not pump related I was told past another farmer. would the filter finish the oil from returning from the lifts to the back end?

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Join Date: October 2013

Posts: 1450

Thanks for all the responses. the only knob i encounter without lifting upward the floor covering is the 1/4 turn knob to increment or tedious the flow of oil to the spool valves. (i deceit mail service a pic hither for some reason) this moves a bar/rod down under the cab where at that place is a valve on the side of the body

I see the blackness knob on another pics on the web they are not present on mine.

the lifts elevator a silage bale and concur information technology there, no jumping of the lifts so its not pump related I was told by another farmer. would the filter end the oil from returning from the lifts to the back end?

If the filters on it 7year it's definitely worth changing, you tin can normally become away with out draining them completely, have the new filter and a bucket at hand and you should exist able to swap them without loosing to much.

The filter is on the render side of any hydraulic circuit then it is very possible that information technology is slowing them from dropping.

When you take the former filter off its worth cut information technology open up with a hacksaw to meet if it bunged up with filings etc.

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Join Date: July 2009

Posts: 11404

If the filters on it 7year it'south definitely worth irresolute, you lot can unremarkably get abroad with out draining them completely, have the new filter and a bucket at hand and you should exist able to bandy them without loosing to much.

The filter is on the return side of whatsoever hydraulic circuit so it is very possible that information technology is slowing them from dropping.

When you take the old filter off its worth cutting it open with a hacksaw to see if information technology bunged up with filings etc.

Don't,:o y'all'll simply depress yourself

If the seat's wet, sit down on yer hat, a absurd head is better than a wet ar5e.

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Join Date: October 2013

Posts: 1450

Don't,:o yous'll only depress yourself

Haha, that'southward true enough alright!

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Join Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

If the filters on it 7year it'southward definitely worth irresolute, you can normally become away with out draining them completely, have the new filter and a bucket at hand and you should be able to bandy them without loosing to much.

The filter is on the return side of any hydraulic circuit so information technology is very possible that it is slowing them from dropping.

When you lot have the old filter off its worth cut information technology open up with a hacksaw to see if it bunged up with filings etc.

Update: I spent a few hours and €130 on oil and filter yesterday for goose egg. Changed the filter and the oil that came out was very grey looking so I bit the bullet and said I'd change the oil as well. 43 litres of oil it took and I had my fingers crossed when I turned the key. Fu$king nil. Same as earlier, lifts upwards but not downward. Put on the pto, hydraulic height link, gave it a good spin down the road and nevertheless nil. I even took off the elevator arm forks off the tractor and greased all around me fcukin fcukin matter.............

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Join Date: July 2009

Posts: 11404

Any metal in the oil/filter:o?

If the seat's moisture, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.

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Join Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

Any metallic in the oil/filter:o?

I didnt open up it yet, I was then pissed off I just left it there. is there whatsoever other gauze/filter around the lift lever? there is a lot of oil pipes under the cab on the right mitt side.
BTW I hitting the lift arm with a sledge which might dislodge and crap in the valves and I bankrupt the bolt holding the lift arm to the lifting rod.

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Join Engagement: December 2013

Posts: 10821

I didnt open information technology all the same, I was and then pissed off I simply left it there. is there any other gauze/filter around the lift lever? there is a lot of oil pipes under the cab on the correct mitt side.
BTW I hit the elevator arm with a sledge which might dislodge and crap in the valves and I bankrupt the bolt holding the lift arm to the lifting rod.

At to the lowest degree y'all have prevented that bolt breaking when y'all had a tool on the dorsum, or someone standing in the transport box as yous went down the route. Must have been near to break anyway.

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Join Engagement: July 2009

Posts: 11404

If the seat's moisture, sit down on yer hat, a cool head is ameliorate than a wet ar5e.

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Bring together Date: March 2010

Posts: 1088

I didnt open it yet, I was and so pissed off I just left information technology there. is at that place any other gauze/filter effectually the lift lever? in that location is a lot of oil pipes under the cab on the right hand side.
BTW I hit the lift arm with a sledge which might dislodge and crap in the valves and I broke the bolt property the lift arm to the lifting rod.

U lucky avoided an accident
Put proper pin in and exercise it on other side to check other pin non bolt
It has worked for me
Make sure the two lift levers are fully downwardly

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Bring together Engagement: January 2010

Posts: 69

Information technology is a while since I endemic a Ford but here are a few general comments. The greyness oil would suggest that water got in at some stage and this could accept caused the problem. There is probably a valve or the linkage working the valve sticking due to a trivial bit of rust. There is probably a linkage from the leavers in the cab connected to an arm on the side or tiptop of elevator meridian. Disconnect the linkages and attempt moving the arm(s) with a small vicegrip. They might do good from a shot of Easy oil. The dept command leaver in particular can seize up from lack of use. Do the same for the period control valve, make sure it is free and fully open. Make sure both spool valves are free and coming to residuum at dead centre in 'neutral'.
Have a look at the bracket where you put on the top link. At that place should be a bit of movement where the top of the bracket connect to the lift acme when the lift is downwardly.

Now that is my twopence worth. Adept luck

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Join Appointment: January 2015

Posts: 37

Just said I'd give a pic of this black round knob I was talking virtually.

Encounter beneath from a 7610 AP cab. Note: this rod coming from the gearbox/mid department tin also be seen under the cab.

(@Kovu said she would embed the ii images here)

While it may not be in the verbal same position, this lever shuts off the back stop hydraulics. Information technology needs to exist fully pushed in.
It was edged out slightly and had the exact symptoms. Artillery very slow to get down. Took ages to drop the hitch to pick upwardly a trailer.
Early symptoms were that the artillery were bobbing upward and down slightly. Everyone said the pump was gone, filters etc. etc. But this elementary command lever above. It is 100% now.

Hope its as simple for you lot.

In that location was also a low pressure render filter we checked. It was a pocket-size 3/4inch plastic cylindrical filter. It was behind a cap with a foursquare nut/head beside the filter on the correct-hand side. Might want to check that also. When taking it out, take a rag to stuff in to block the hole when cleaning the filter. Its only low pressure render, and then no demand to over tighten.

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Bring together Date: May 2012

Posts: 386

It is a while since I owned a Ford merely here are a few general comments. The grey oil would propose that water got in at some stage and this could have caused the problem. In that location is probably a valve or the linkage working the valve sticking due to a little bit of rust. There is probably a linkage from the leavers in the cab continued to an arm on the side or top of lift top. Disconnect the linkages and try moving the arm(due south) with a pocket-sized vicegrip. They might do good from a shot of Easy oil. The dept control leaver in particular can seize upwards from lack of apply. Do the aforementioned for the menses control valve, make sure it is free and fully open. Make sure both spool valves are gratuitous and coming to residuum at expressionless eye in 'neutral'.
Take a look at the bracket where you put on the top link. There should be a bit of movement where the top of the bracket connect to the elevator top when the lift is downward.

Now that is my twopence worth. Good luck

all the levers work except the depth control, it never did since I got the tractor and information technology never bothered me. (I don't exercise whatsoever ploughing). I have heard that at that place are modest ball bearings behind the lever controls that control the menstruation of oil to the lifts and these can get blocked or rusted, or a piston band could be worn and folded in on itself.

I definitely don't have that black knob on the side of the foot well, simply the unequal lock pedal is there.

All the Fords differ, a lad at work has a 4610 with the pump and filter at the front left of the cab. i think some more ripping will have to be washed....

the pick up hitch is at present a two man task, one to lift the artillery upwards and pull the lever for the locking mechanism and some other to sit down on the lifts to get them down, serious pain in the pigsty this now.....

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Join Date: December 2014

Posts: 1246

I definitely don't have that black knob on the side of the foot well, but the unequal lock pedal is at that place.

All the Fords differ, a lad at work has a 4610 with the pump and filter at the front left of the cab. i think some more ripping will accept to be done....

Peradventure the actual knob has broken off leaving the shaft (or any) hidden behind the floor . I'd exist very surprised if it wasn't there. I've been in several 10 serial 7610, 6610 and 7600 and they all had this knob. Have a closer look and expect underneath the cab flooring.

The pump & filter at the forepart left is only an auxiliary pump. They were fitted to the x series equally an selection to heave the lpm. You'll withal have the regular pump in the back stop.

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Join Engagement: May 2012

Posts: 386

Whatever metal in the oil/filter:o?

I somewhen got to cutting open the filter, no metal in the filter, just the usual gunk ud find in in that location.

UPDATE: I got an ex Ford tractor mechanic to look at the lifts, he traced it dorsum to king pin/elevator rod was seized. we took off the elevator artillery and the safety o band was in bits. we then drilled 2 8mm holes almost a half an inch in from the border tru the cast atomic number 26 housing until I reached the hard king pin. we sprayed WD40 in to it and worked it up and downwards to let the WD40 eat the sh1te out of it and complimentary it up. ever and so frequently when i sprayed into the hole black muck would come out. (more than on the RHS than the left) done a flake of work with information technology and put some weight on the lifts and kept spraying. at present the lifts will go downwards (very slowly) on their own with nothing attached to them. will keep at it for another few days and hopefully it will get better and more than freed up. the programme so is to replace the orings, tap the holes and spiral in a 10mm grease nipple and and keep information technology full of grease. that shud do the flim-flam all goin well.
thanks for all the suggestions along the way...

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